I noticed that these days are fashionable ratlines. Several threads in several forums concerned with these little pieces that are both playing.
I put some thoughts on them, based on my experience and findings.
Realism of arrows in the models:
is one of the parts of the models usually have less realistic. We have a very stereotyped idea of \u200b\u200bhow the head should be the ratlines and this idea does not match reality. When we encounter a real ship, or replica, or tall ship, either historical relic, we draw attention to the ratlines: its thickness, its knots, color, etc fall.
Thickness:
Very fine. I have not found a thick Canon for the arrows, but must be very sharp. If you look at the photos of Victory can see a very thin thickness compared to the rigging. This place is critical refinement of large models and condemns us almost always to be out of scale. The fat arrows is one of the most common errors in modeling.
Color:
Contrary to commonly believed, do not have to go in black bitumen. Go in crude bitumen or a tone slightly lighter than the shrouds. There is no canonical solution in this regard. I go to send to Victory: they are not tarred.
Knots:
In the internal nodes, clove classics. There are mysteries. The problem usually arises with external nodes. The arrow is usually attached at their ends by connecting the shroud tied to a loop of own arrows, ie, there are three parts: the arrow, the shroud and tied. This is virtually impossible to play on scale models usual, what we do is limit it to two parts, the shaft and the shroud, and use another hitch ends in single or double, or some other similar knot. The problem that often accompany this is that there is a very unrealistic bulge at the ends, a problem compounded if excel "tails" to cut the excess.
can overcome this problem, first taking great care when cutting the corner so you do not draw out excess or do a little (before gluing) and, above all, by the method of the needle. This is literally sewing the arrows at the shroud with the whip once crossed the shroud would be inside the table ratlines and the system closely resemble the real.
Another issue is the protection of the shroud in the area's established arrows. It is customary for the shrouds first and last, the end, carrying a small leather or canvas protection where the arrow root. There is usually placed in the models, I put it in the Hussar and the truth is I'm happy with how it was. I encourage it.
And finally a golden rule to ratlines: Always the same nodes, ie all nodes are made in the same way, do not combine different nodes and that all loops have the same meaning. Distance
ratlines:
itself up to a man at the boat, that is the result of making the scale of the model itself a distance of between 30 and 40 cm. Of course this distance does not vary throughout the length of the table, however, models for cosmetic reasons usually make a small trap consisting of go, imperceptibly, shortening the distance as you climb. It's something that, in my opinion, improve the aesthetic appearance of the model and is perfectly forgivable. Never forget the maxim that we do not ship models, which are two very different things.
Fall of the ratlines. In a real boat
usually have some natural decline. This fall. Own weight of the rope, you can not ever give a model. I do not advise letting loose as never occur this fall, but each arrow acquire a ripple own aesthetically very poor. I recommend leaving them tight.
I put a picture 
